National Indoor Bouldering Series Rules

Categories

Categories are Women, Men, Junior Female and Junior Male. Junior (U16) is for those born in 1995 or later. Series placings will be announced at the last comp in Mt. Maunganui.

Format

5:30pm   Registration Opens
6:00pm   Non-comp sections of gym open for warmup
6:15pm   Briefing
6:20pm   Main Event starts
8:20pm   Main Event finishes, add up scoresheets
8:30pm   Finals & Spotprizegiving
9:00pm   Event finishes

Competition Points

Tags will be used to mark problems. Points are scored according to the following table. Scoresheets are handed out at registration and the main event is self-scoring.

Tag Colour
  Points 


Green (easiest)  5pts
Yellow  6pts
Orange  7pts
Red  8pts
Black (hardest)
  10pts

If a problem is successfully completed the corresponding number of points are scored. Each problem can only be scored once.

At the end of the main event your total score is:

  • The sum of all your scoring points if you completed 0-7 problems
  • The sum of your top seven problems if you completed more than seven

sections

Each section will be marked out with tape and will contain one problem of each colour tag. A printed or taped number will be clearly visible to mark the section.

Tags & Usable holds

Problems will be marked out with coloured tags placed behind the hold. You can only use the tagged holds in the section you are climbing. There will be either one or two defined starting holds, and one defined finishing hold. If there is one starting hold it will have three tags. You start with two hands on this hold. If there are two starting holds they each will have two tags. You start with one hand on each hold (either way around). You must have your weight off the ground or mats before you can move a hand.

The finishing hold will have two tags. You need to hold the finishing hold for at least two seconds with both hands to complete the problem.

In between you can use any:

  • Hold which has a tag of the correct colour behind it
  • Natural feature or part of the wall unless
    • it is 'marked out' with black tape
    • it is considered 'structural' i.e. the side or top of the wall, beams, hardware etc.

In addition you can use any hold that is attached only with screws (not a bolt) on any problem as extra footholds (to make problems less height dependent). You can use this hold as a handhold only if it has a tag of the correct colour behind it.

Any hold or part of the wall outside the taped section is considered out-of-bounds, and weighting it will result in an unsuccessful attempt.

Final round

At the end of the main event the top three ranking men and the top three women will qualify for the finals. If there is a tie in any of the top placings the event organiser can choose to allow two, four or no competitors through to the final depending on time restrictions. The results of the final will decide the competition rankings. If there is a tie in the final, placings will go on countback to the main event.

The rules of the final round will be as IFSC Bouldering Rules 2010 except that there will be 2 finals problems (2 for men, 2 for women) and 4mins allowed per problem. The event organiser can make any changes to the IFSC rules e.g. who can judge, problem length, time allowed between the rounds and safety regulations as long as they fit within the safety operating procedures of the gym.

Series Points

Series points will be allocated in all categories to the top 30 competitors as per the IFSC World Cup series. The person with the highest score, based on their placings over their best 3 competitions, will be the overall series winner. Ties for all places will be allowed in each competition, including 1st, 2nd and 3rd.

The overall series winner will be decided at the final at The Rockhouse. If a tie exists for 1st place after this competition there will be a count back of the main event points, of the competitor's best 3 comps as a 'raw' total, regardless of their placing in the individual competitions, determining the series winner.

Climbers may compete in as many or as few of the four series competitions as they wish and still be eligible for an overall placing.

Note: Series points will be posted on the results page after each competition.

Honesty

Climbers are responsible for recording and tallying their own scores. If climbers are unsure of what a certain problem is they should consult the competition organiser. If the National Coordinator has reason to believe that a climber's score is incorrect the climber will be asked to either provide a witness to the climbs in question or to re-climb them. If neither of these options are satisfied the climber may be disqualified or their score nullified. Cheating in any form will not be tolerated so please be honest.

Prize Giving

All entrants will be eligible for spot prizes, given out during the finals.

Safety and Liability

Competition organisers, volunteers and sponsors indemnify themselves against any personal injury resulting from competing in this series.

All climbers must adhere to all the rules and safe operating procedures of the host gym, if there is any doubt you need to ask the event organiser or a staff member.

All climbing carries an element of risk - help keep yourself and everyone else safe by being aware of other climbers. Spotting and encouraging each other is highly recommended.

Registration

A registration fee of $10 per entrant is payable at the start of each competition - guides/score sheets will be given at this time. Payment of this deems that you have read and accepted these rules.

 

Code of Conduct for Climbers

(adapted from the NZAC Code of Conduct for Rock Climbers)

This is from the outdoor series and although it doesn't directly apply to indoor events, you should always follow this code when you climb outdoors.

Permission

The Airstrip and Jardines are on private land and permission has been obtained for the competitions at these venues. If you plan to climb at these venues at other times permission must be obtained. Any agreements made must be strictly followed. Accept that sometimes you may be refused permission to enter the land because of current circumstances, eg. lambing.

 

Impact

Any rockclimbing must have the lowest possible impact on the crag/boulders and environs. Points to note are:
- No climbing on special areas such as areas of rare wildlife or artefact sites,
- Keep tracks to a minimum
- A crag/bouldering area is often a small area and should not be used as a toilet (toilet facilities will be provided at all of the comps so there is no exuse for this one)
- All rubbish should be taken from the crag/bouldering area, including biodegradables.

 

Boulder Problem Preparation

Occasionally established or new boulder problems require cleaning/brushing to remove dirt or lichen. This should be kept to a minimum, eg. just enough to allow the problem to be climbed. It is not acceptable to remove plants or vegetation from any rock, there are plenty of rockfaces clear of vegetation to climb!

 

Behaviour

Remember that your voice may carry some distance from atop boulders. No obscenities or offensive phrases! Remember to:
- Leave gates as you find them,
- Cross fences at stiles preferably or at strainer posts, and cross locked gates at the hinged end,
- Leave you dog at home,
- Do not distress stock.

 

Camping

Absolutely no camping in bouldering areas, private land or areas not designated for camping.

 

Safety

Climb as safely as possible and beware of other climbers/people. Spot each other on problems which are difficult, high or have uneven landings.

Remember access to crags/bouldering areas is a privledge not a right!