Greywacke by the sea: Baring Head and Turakirae

East of Wellington Harbour, the land ends in a long, exposed stretch of coast facing Cook Strait. It is windy, often wild, and covered in rock. Baring Head / Ōrua-pouanui is the best-known bouldering spot on this coast and one of the oldest in the country. Further east, Turakirae Head is a very different place: a scientific reserve with raised beaches and a seal colony. This note covers what to expect on the south coast and how to visit without causing trouble.

Baring Head / Ōrua-pouanui

The ClimbNZ guide page for Baring Head calls it the birthplace of bouldering in New Zealand, and the history backs that up. Wikipedia's rock climbing in New Zealand timeline records a 1960 tramping club trip that established Baring Head as one of the country's first bouldering areas. Hard problems were climbed there in 1981 and 2000 that were well ahead of their time in New Zealand.

The rock is greywacke, which ClimbNZ describes as slick and crimpy. Some problems rise up to about eight metres above coarse sandy landings. It is very different from the limestone at Castle Hill or Waitomo. There are few pockets and big rounded features. Instead you get edges, small crimps and smooth faces that ask for careful footwork. The best-known problems are as much about composure as strength. A tall problem on a slick face with a sandy landing is a serious proposition, so take enough pads and a spotter you trust.

Getting there: the river and the coast

According to Wikipedia's Baring Head article, the headland is managed by Greater Wellington Regional Council as part of East Harbour Regional Park, and you normally reach it on foot from the mouth of the Wainuiomata River. ClimbNZ's approach notes describe driving south from Wainuiomata on the Coast Road to a car park near the beach, then walking west along the beach to the rocks. The walk takes about 15 minutes.

The catch is the river. The walk almost always involves crossing the Wainuiomata River. ClimbNZ suggests crossing at the mouth when the sea is calm and further upstream when a big sea is running. Wikipedia's article, citing the regional council, says not to cross when the river is discoloured or in flood. Take that seriously. A river mouth with surf pushing in and current flowing out is not a place to carry a crash pad across in a hurry.

The park has its own rules, again summarised from the council in Wikipedia's article. Dogs, fires, fireworks, and trail and quad bikes are not allowed at any time. Recreational vehicles aren't permitted beyond the car parks. Visitors must take their rubbish home and must not remove plants, animals or rocks. The area is also a significant coastal habitat for native birds, with several at-risk species, so give nesting birds plenty of room.

Turakirae Head

Turakirae Head is about 20 km southeast of Wellington at the southern end of the Remutaka Range. The Wikipedia article on Turakirae Head describes it as a promontory and scientific reserve, known for a series of raised beach ridges that record uplift from past earthquakes, including the 1855 Wairarapa earthquake. It is also home to a seal colony.

There are boulders here, and a national bouldering series used the area for an outdoor round in the early 2010s. But Turakirae is a reserve first and a climbing spot a distant second. Wikipedia notes that access is via the Coast Road from Wainuiomata, which ends 3 km from the reserve, and then on foot across private land. In the 1960s, thousands of tonnes of boulders were taken from the headland for motorway construction in Wellington.

Our advice is to treat Turakirae as a place to look rather than a place to climb, unless current guidebook information clearly says climbing is fine and the access is open. Keep well away from the seals, don't disturb the beach ridges, and don't add new paths.

Wind, weather and tides

Wind is the defining feature of this coast. A north-westerly can be dry and gusty, while a southerly can bring cold rain and big seas in a hurry. Before you go, check the MetService forecast for wind strength and direction, not just rain. If a strong southerly is coming, the sea and the river crossing can become dangerous quickly.

Salt spray is the other issue. Sea air leaves a greasy film on the rock that kills friction, especially on still, humid days. The best conditions are usually cool, dry days with a light offshore breeze, after a spell of settled weather. Problems near the waterline can be wet from spray or swell even when the sky is clear. Know the tide times if you plan to boulder near the sea, and don't let the tide cut off your way back.

A short checklist

• Check the wind, the sea and the river before you set out, and turn back if the crossing looks wrong.
• Take enough pads for tall problems and sandy, uneven landings.
• Leave the dog at home and take everything out with you.
• Give birds and seals plenty of space.
• Brush your chalk off the holds before you leave.

For the history of comps on this coast, see thirteen summers of national bouldering comps. For limestone, try Waitomo.